ZHEYU ZHANG

WEEK 1-BRIEFING

I went to Tate Modern, and this artwork really inspired me. This work uses hollowed-out paper to create a totem that looks like a tattoo. When I first saw it, I thought it was a unique tribal totem tattoo. Those particular patterns that artists make inspired me to do it in embroidery.

Embroidery work inspired by Tate Modern

We learned some new techniques during this class, which inspired me to combine the new technique with the pattern. That pattern was inspired by the artist’s artwork, after I saw their work, some of the way was really abstract and peculiar. so I want to repeat those patterns and see what it looks like…

WEEK 2-INTRODUCTION TO SUSTAINABILITY

Sustainable fashion, also known as eco-friendly or ethical fashion, is an approach to designing, producing, and consuming clothing and accessories that considers the environmental and social impact of the entire product lifecycle. It aims to minimize harm to the environment, promote fair and ethical treatment of workers, and create high-quality, long-lasting products.

Sustainable fashion may involve using eco-friendly materials, reducing waste, adopting ethical labor practices, and promoting conscious consumer behavior. It’s a response to the negative environmental and social consequences of the fast fashion industry. One example of sustainable fashion is clothing made from organic or recycled materials. For instance, a company might produce a pair of jeans using organic cotton, which is grown without harmful pesticides and chemicals, or create a T-shirt from recycled plastic bottles. These practices reduce the environmental impact of clothing production and promote sustainability. Additionally, some sustainable fashion brands prioritize fair labor practices, ensuring that garment workers are paid fair wages and work in safe conditions.

Beth Wiliams is a disabled multidisciplinary artist who specializes in knitwear, lifestyle textiles, and soft sculptures. He used the plant combined with knit to express the concept of sustainability.

WEEK 3-EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES IN FASHION

Bioplastic leather

Bioplastic leather is a type of synthetic leather alternative made from plant-based or biodegradable materials instead of traditional animal leather. It is designed to mimic the look and feel of genuine leather while offering a more sustainable and cruelty-free option.

The pollution of human industry is more and more serious, for instance, global warming, large amounts of animal extinction, and large emissions of carbon dioxide… The goal of fashion brands is to reduce environmental pollution in the fashion industry and emphasize the importance of environmental protection. Many companies decided to use environmentally friendly leather and refused to use animal fur or leather. All of those products are made of Apple’s Skin leather, which is created using waste from apple production, such as peels and cores. The food industry discards millions of tons of unusable materials, which, with this ease, are recovered by Crush which transforms them into Apple’s skin leather.

Bioplastic Fur experiment

Bioplastics made from gelatin matrix are renewable bio-based raw materials produced using only plant-based substances.

Bioplastic formulations
Cold water–240ml
gelatine powder–48g
Glycerin–12g

During experiments, different elastic effects can be obtained depending on the glycerol content in the mixture. Change the opacity and texture by creating a foam effect when the heated mixture creates air.
Multi-effect exploration can try mixing bioplastics with a variety of materials such as fabrics, fibers, threads, paints, tapes, wood, and metals.

-You can try any shape during the experiment (change the volume size and surface thickness).
-Can have different properties by changing the amount of water, gelatin, and glycerin
(Elasticity->rigidity).
-Can be transparent and smooth or opaque and fluffy if you add air to the mixture.

WEEK 3-NATURE

The interconnections between natural systems and fashion products and activities are complex and significant. Here are several key aspects of this relationship:

Material Sourcing: Fashion relies heavily on natural resources like cotton, wool, and leather. The cultivation and extraction of these materials can have a profound impact on ecosystems.

Environmental Footprint: The fashion industry is a major contributor to environmental degradation. Natural systems, including air and water quality, are affected by the production processes, including dyeing and finishing textiles. The release of chemicals and pollutants into ecosystems can harm wildlife and human health.

Water Usage: Fashion production consumes vast amounts of water, particularly in regions already experiencing water scarcity. This can deplete water sources and negatively impact ecosystems. For example, the Aral Sea in Central Asia shrank drastically due to cotton farming and irrigation for textiles.

Waste and Pollution: The fast fashion model produces a considerable amount of waste, from unsold inventory to discarded clothing. Synthetic fibers shed microplastics into natural systems, affecting aquatic life. Landfills are filled with non-biodegradable textiles.

Finding new ways to express creativity through materials without harming the environment or animals is a daily task for many professionals. It has always been a fascinating challenge for fashion, interior, and product designers. In this case, a device developed by Scays Group from the Turkish company called Wastea’s innovative materials also comes into play. Scays Group, the company behind Wastea Materials, specializes in creating sustainable circular solutions for various industries. It was founded in 2015 by Erdem Dogan, a passionate entrepreneur who wants to make a positive impact on the world. His vision is to transform waste into value and create products that are not only functional and beautiful but also ethical and environmentally friendly. Wastea, in particular, is made from tea waste that would otherwise end up in landfills or incinerators.

Wasment is the name of the new substance. It is a sophisticated cement substitute with several qualities, including hardness, durability, and insulation (both warm and cold). Tea waste is a huge problem globally as it accounts for approximately 10% of total tea production and has a high environmental impact due to its associated water consumption, carbon footprint, and prevalence of chemical residues. Scays Group saw an opportunity to turn this problem into a solution by using a patented process to transform tea waste into a durable, flexible, and breathable material similar to leather. This new creative material offers many advantages over traditional leather, such as fire-resistant rating, lightweight, comfortable, vegan and animal-friendly… Tealeaf leather is a waterproof material because of its natural coating that repels liquids and dirt. It also contains multiple and customizable functions; this leather can be dyed, printed, embossed, or stitched according to the desired design.

Week 4-CULTURAL SUSTAINABILITY

Cultural sustainability in fashion refers to the practice of preserving and respecting the cultural diversity, heritage, and traditional craftsmanship that are integral to clothing and textile production. This concept recognizes the importance of acknowledging and protecting the cultural identities and traditions that are woven into the fabric of fashion.

An example of cultural sustainability in fashion is the collaboration between fashion brands and indigenous communities to preserve and promote traditional craftsmanship. One notable case is the partnership between high-end fashion label Louis Vuitton and the indigenous communities of northern Canada.

In this collaboration, Louis Vuitton worked with indigenous artisans to incorporate traditional Inuit designs and techniques into a collection of luxury accessories, including scarves, shawls, and blankets. The brand paid fair wages to the artisans and ensured that their cultural heritage and intellectual property were respected and protected. This initiative not only celebrated the Inuit culture but also provided economic opportunities for the community.

Many fashion brands source textiles created using centuries-old weaving and dyeing methods. For instance, a fashion label might partner with weavers in India to produce clothing using handwoven fabrics and traditional block-printing techniques. These collaborations help sustain the cultural heritage of textile production and support the livelihoods of artisans.

WEEK 5-EMPATHY

Empathy in fashion means understanding and acknowledging the diverse experiences and needs of consumers. It involves recognizing that people come in all shapes, sizes, abilities, and backgrounds, and that fashion should be inclusive and accessible to everyone.

Models with Disabilities

Fashion labels, including Aerie and Tommy Hilfiger, have featured models with disabilities in their advertising campaigns, promoting more inclusive and relatable representations of beauty and style.

One prominent example of a model with a disability is Jillian Mercado. She has muscular dystrophy, a neuromuscular disorder, and has become a successful fashion model. Jillian has appeared in campaigns for major fashion brands like Diesel and Nordstrom and has worked to promote inclusivity and diversity in the fashion industry. Her presence in the fashion world has been a significant step towards representing people with disabilities in a more inclusive and empathetic manner.

The example demonstrates how empathy in fashion is reflected through various aspects of the industry, from sizing and accessibility to representation, sustainability, and cultural sensitivity. It’s a recognition that fashion should cater to and celebrate the diverse needs, backgrounds, and preferences of consumers.